A brief overview
The Le Pliage bag from Longchamp, created in the 1990s but popular among celebrities such as Beyoncé, Kate Middleton, and Angela Merkel, has recently become a surprise success among younger people. Thanks to its popularity on TikTok, reasonable prices, as well as the appeal of French elegance, the brand has experienced massive sales growth at a time when other luxury brands are facing difficulties.
But there is a bag that, if you were paying attention, you would realize has existed for decades, irrespective of your location on the planet. It can be spotted in airports, train stations, office complexes, as well as in department stores. Currently, this bag has also been spotted on the arms of teenagers in class, having been selected as the bag of choice among members of Generation Z.
There are few fashion products that are purchased by grandmothers, mothers, and their daughters, but the Longchamp Le Pliage handbag has been more generational than almost anything else before it. Originating in 1993, the design takes its inspiration from Japanese origami paper. Meaning “fold,” the bag is made from recycled nylon fabric, with leather handles, a snap button that enables the bag to be folded, and retails at a price of £125 for the standard size.
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Le Pliage is not a sexy or overtly fashionable bag. The cost incurred in buying the bag is moderate in relation to other luxury bags, in addition to being quite durable, with a wide array of colors to suit every individual’s taste. The bag has been carried by celebrities such as Beyoncé, Kendall Jenner, Kate Middleton, and Angela Merkel.
An interview with the CEO of Longchamp, Jean Cassegrain, was conducted regarding the company and its product. Cassegrain argues that it was the bag’s anti-fashion elements that ensured the success of Le Pliage, adding that it is the best-selling luxury handbag globally.
The brand was founded by his grandfather in 1948 and has always remained family-owned. It does not reveal its financial performance or the number of Le Pliage bags sold every year. Prior to the COVID-19 outbreak, it was estimated that the brand sold approximately 11 bags every minute. However, according to the brand, in 2024 its sales peaked at an all-time high, registering a 20% increase over the previous year, which itself had seen an impressive 40% surge compared to 2022, a reflection of fashion’s shifting landscape in the post-pandemic era.
Essentially, it is an entirely different story for Longchamp compared to many luxury fashion brands that faced the brunt of the economic slowdown. It is, however, debatable whether Longchamp should be classified strictly as a luxury fashion brand. There is no doubt that the company has managed to create an aura around its identity, owing to its French heritage, associations with traditional wealth and horse racing, and its European craftsmanship. Together, the Cassegrain family has built a business that has reached billionaire status.
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Smart Pricing as a Strategy
The “smart pricing” strategy at Longchamp is a crucial part of its competitive edge. It enables students to purchase their first “designer bag” at a relatively accessible price point, while the brand also offers higher-priced variants for more upscale clients.
However, according to Cassegrain, Longchamp has never marketed itself specifically to teenagers. “This age group isn’t interested in products designed especially for them; the only thing that works is if they believe they’ve adopted it themselves.”
After the pandemic, there was a massive surge in popularity for the bag among younger generations, functioning as a form of nostalgia or even an anti-status symbol that propelled the brand to new heights. Data from the shopping platform Lyst indicates an average annual growth rate of 68% for Le Pliage bags over the past five years. The company has managed to strike a balance between extensive exposure and maintaining a highly sought-after status among both new and existing customers.
Trend strategist Lucy Green attributed the renewed fixation on Longchamp among members of Generation Z to its massive social media presence, including reviews highlighting the bag’s durability, instructions on how to fold it properly, “What’s in my bag” videos, and similar content. The company also gained notable exposure from the Netflix series Emily in Paris, which Longchamp stated was unpaid. “This generation adores brands that were once pop culture icons,” Green explains. “Many luxury brands have long lost relevance with teenagers, while Longchamp is timeless, undeniably non-trendy, and operates without trying to be cool, simply because it delivers superior quality. Teenagers seem to appreciate that.”
Longchamp is one of the few remaining family-owned luxury goods brands, operating under the leadership of CEO Jean Cassegrain, with his sister Sophie Delpontaine as chief designer and his brother Olivier overseeing retail operations in the United States. Members of the fourth generation have also joined the company in recent years.
Business strengths include an early and well-established presence in airport retail, catering to air travelers. Today, the group operates approximately 400 stores worldwide. Its products are distributed through official retail partners and digital platforms. The company employs 4,245 people and maintains five workshops in France, where most of its leather accessories are produced. The Le Pliage line now incorporates 100% recycled nylon fabric, and the group offers repair services for its products. Other offerings include Le Roseau, a line launched 30 years ago featuring a distinctive bamboo clasp.
The Brand Stays Within the Family
“This means that we can really think long-term. We can invest when needed without being obligated to account for every profit or loss, or to provide constant positive news to the stock market,” said Cassegrain, adding that he believes Longchamp will always remain independent. “We’re also a medium-sized business in a world of giants. What keeps me up at night is the need to continue growing, because in today’s market we have to be big enough to survive,” explained Longchamp’s third CEO in nearly 80 years of business.
Another member of the fourth generation, Juliette Popart, serves as the brand’s events manager. She believes that reaching young consumers depends largely on events that generate social media buzz, such as organizing hot-air balloon tours in England or ice skating experiences in France. “I think our brand is a happy and optimistic brand, and it’s something we’ve communicated for decades to ensure people understand exactly what we represent,” said Olivier Cassegrain, who oversees business operations in the United States.
